Outdoor Life - Urban RSS

Survival Medicine: Is There a Field Antidote for Poisoning?

Alex Robinson — Tue, 18 Jun 2013 09:07:08 -0400

Being a fanatic about wild food foraging and field medicine, I’ve often wondered what would happen if those two worlds were to collide. What would I do if I ate the wrong plant or mushroom far away from a doctor’s help? What’s the first aid for that? After years of ethnobotantical research, it’s hard to imagine that I would make a mistake that could leave me poisoned. But, I’ve also been around the block enough times to realize that mistakes do happen from time to time. And it might not even be me that needs help. I may need to care for someone else, who was less cautious than I am when selecting wild food.

This “what if” situation should leave us wondering if there are worthwhile treatments one could employ if poisoning occurs in a remote-area survival event. After much research, I’m afraid to say the prognosis for field treatment isn’t good.

For years, the “universal antidote” for poisoning was a mixture of 50 percent activated charcoal, 25 percent magnesium oxide, and 25 percent tannic acid. This was formerly thought to be useful as an antidote for most types of alkaloid and glycoside poisons, which are common culprits in plant poisoning cases. It is now believed that the mixture is no more effective than activated charcoal given with water.

Activated charcoal exerts its effects by absorbing a wide variety of poisons and chemicals. The toxic substance attaches to the surface of the charcoal, and because charcoal is not digested, it stays inside the GI tract and eliminates the toxin when the victim moves his bowels. The problem with stocking your first aid kit with this medicine is you need a prescription to get the real stuff.

Activated charcoal tablets are common enough and available over the counter. These are sometimes advised by “survivalist docs,” but the tablets are slow-acting and a much less effective antidote when compared to the current standard, an aqueous solution of activated charcoal that requires a prescription and careful dosage. The charcoal tablets are also notorious for causing indigestible charcoal clods to form in the intestines. This condition could be more damaging than the poison you were trying to treat.

So if we can’t soak up the poison with an antidote, can we puke it up? Short of your pointer finger making contact with the back of the throat, our options are limited there, too. Ipecac syrup (the classic vomit inducer) has been pulled from Walgreen’s shelves throughout most states. Your local drug store may have followed suit. Ipecac had a recall in the late 1980s due to a batch tainted with some poisonous oil. Since then, it has been linked to bulimic weight loss strategies and more recently it has been the subject of viral vomiting videos on the web. Ipecac turns out to be pretty dangerous, too. If someone lost consciousness while vomiting, they would keep vomiting and choke.

So what can you do? If you suspect you have been poisoned, and cannot get to medical care, immediately chug a glass of warm water and make yourself vomit with the old finger-down-the-throat trick. Then drink another glass and do it again. If you are certain that you ingested a poison, crush some wood charcoal or burned animal bones into a fine powder, mix a tablespoon of this powder with a glass of water and drink it. Then let your body filter the poison as best as it can. If poisoning is even suspected, don’t drink any alcohol, as this can amplify some plant and fungal toxins. Unfortunately, there is no decent way to treat poisoning in the field, short of having a prescription antidote.

Have you ever eaten something that poisoned you during an outdoor excursion? Please tell us what you did in the comments.

Survival Gear: Build Your Own Fire Starting Kit

Alex Robinson — Fri, 14 Jun 2013 11:56:41 -0400

Fire building is one of those skill sets that can make or break a survival situation. With so much riding on your ability to produce flame, it makes a lot of sense to plan for your own success by building a dedicated fire starting kit. It’s easy and fun to do, and you probably already have all the stuff laying around the house.

The three basic parts of this kit are the container, the ignition sources, and the fuels. Note that the last two were plural—you’re going to want the extra insurance of multiple fire starting implements and several fuels to burn.

The container can be anything watertight and easily transported. This can range from a small Pelican case or similar waterproof box; a small, wide-mouth plastic bottle; or even a zip-top freezer bag.

Once you have your container, add your ignition sources. At a minimum, you should include a lighter, a box of matches, and a spark rod. The lighter is the best of the bunch for most fire building situations. The open flame can be used to dry out damp tinder and kindling, catching it ablaze without much trouble. There really isn’t a situation in which matches are a better ignition source than a lighter, but I like the matchbox for redundancy and for the fact that those matchsticks provide kindling if you need to burn a few of them, or even the whole box in a pinch. The spark rod serves as the indestructible back-up ignition source. It won’t light the variety of materials that matches and lighters will, but the spark rod will work when the lighter and matches have failed.

The fuels should be as diverse as your ignition sources. Some dry cotton balls, drier lint, or gauze can take the role of tinder (your primary fuel for fire). I also like a candle nub and a tube of petroleum jelly. The candle can be lit and used as a fire starter by itself, or the wax can be dripped onto tinder or kindling for a wet-weather fire boost. The petroleum jelly can be smeared into the cotton balls to make long-burning fire starters, plus the jelly is helpful for a number of first aid and survival chores. You could pre-make the petroleum jelly cotton balls, if you like. But the summertime heat here in the mid-Atlantic always melts the petroleum jelly, causing it to seep through all but the most watertight containers. This melted jelly has ruined enough boxes of matches for me that I now carry the tightly sealed tube of jelly and the dry cotton balls separately.

Got any tricks for fire building that you swear by? Take a second to tell us about your best or worst fire starters in the comments.

Survival Gear: 5 Best Signaling Items

Alex Robinson — Thu, 13 Jun 2013 13:13:20 -0400

It’s hard for me to understand why signaling is such an under-emphasized and little practiced survival skill. Signaling is the best way to help a search party get you out of a survival scrape. In the world of survival priorities, signaling is right up there with shelter, first aid, and water.

With that in mind, here are five important pieces of signal gear that you should have on your person or in your vehicle.

Cell Phone
This everyday carry necessity can call for help in a way that no other piece of gear can. It’s amazing how far some service providers can reach, and an emergency text message could save your day. Other features like a flashlight and a digital compass are icing on the cake.

Whistle
The signal whistle is an item that works day or night, and it will keep working as long as you have breath to blow it. My favorite is a Fox 40. This is a referee whistle, which comes in bright colors and generates an ear splitting 40 decibels. The Fox 40 can be found as cheap as $4 each.

Signal Flare
A signal flare is a great piece of rescue equipment, which can help out if you needed a fire while you’re out there, too. To activate it, pop the cap and strike it like a match at the flare’s end, just like a standard road flare. The Orion SAR Signal Flare/ Fire Starters will cost you about $10 for a pack of two flares. Each flare burns approximately five minutes at temperatures well over 2000 Fahrenheit.

Signal Mirror
Ultimate Survival Technologies Starflash signal mirror is tough, compact and best of all, it features a sighting lens to help you get a bead on a distant target. These targetable and unbreakable mirrors retail for around $10. They can even help out in the medical department, with one-man tick removal and first aid on your eyes, face, and backside.

Flashlight
An ultra-bright flashlight such as a Surefire or one of SOG’s tactical flashlights can give you abundant light, melt the fur off a nighttime prowler, and be seen as a signal in the darkness over a mile away.

Do you have a favorite piece of signaling gear? Tell us all about it in the comment section below.

10 Survival Uses For a Mason Jar

Alex Robinson — Thu, 06 Jun 2013 14:29:39 -0400

If you’re a home canner (or a moonshiner), you’re already familiar with the wonders of the mason jar. These old-timey, reusable storage jars are very versatile. But are we using this container to its fullest potential? Here are my top 10 urban survival and wilderness survival uses for the classic mason jar.

1. Re-pack Dry Foods: Pour your rice, beans, etc. into mason jars and screw the cap on tight to keep bugs, rodents, and dampness out of your dry-food stores. Add food-safe oxygen absorber packs or desiccant packs if you have them.

2. Tinder Box: Keep shredded bark, dryer lint, and other choice tinders dry and away from nest-making rodents at your camp, cabin, or bug out site.

3. Bank: Fill a jar with valuable coins, jewelry, and other bank-worthy items, and bury it in a safe place (but one you’ll be able to find again). Don’t put paper money or documents in the jar—the lid could corrode and let moisture in. Be sure to let one or two trusted family members know the location, in case something happens to you.

4. Ammo Cache: Fill jars with the most popular ammunition cartridges (.22 LR, 9mm, .308, etc.) or whatever your guns shoot, and bury them at a bug-out site or in the back yard. Like the bank, make sure you hide it somewhere you can find it again.

5. Home Brew: Whatever your tipple—wine, beer, whiskey—store your homemade hooch in space-saving mason jars.

6. Store Game and Veggies: If properly canned and stored in a cool, dark place, fish, game, and homegrown or foraged vegetables can be stored for years in mason jars.

7. First Aid Kit: Mason jars make great, waterproof containers for first aid supplies.

8. Wild Pharmacy: Medicinal plants that you’ve grown or collected can be dried and stored for several seasons in mason jars. Some folks won’t store their dry herbs in anything else. Incidentally, our word “drug” comes from the Dutch word “droog,” meaning “dry.”

9. Lantern: Put a small candle in an uncovered jar to make a wind-proof lantern for home or camp.

10. Break the Jar: Functional glass knives and arrowheads can be chipped from the pieces of a broken jar.

Share your most creative moment with the humble mason jar in the comments.

Survival Skills: Build Your Own Gunshot Medical Kit

Alex Robinson — Fri, 31 May 2013 09:46:36 -0400

Don’t look for Band-aids or Neosporin in this medical kit. This assortment of supplies is tailored specifically to deal with gunshot wounds. A modular kit like this is a great addition to your range bag, your vehicle and even your BOB .

There are plenty of reputable companies out there selling their own gunshot trauma kits. Most kits start around $80. This is a quick solution if you have the money to buy them, but lack the time to assemble your own kit. Or you can follow our lead, by building your own custom kit. I picked up a nice little gear bag for $8 at a gun show, the other gear can be purchased for about $60.

Here’s what I have in my gunshot medical kit:

Dressings – These bandages are critical for bleeding control. Have 2 or 3 dressings each, in several sizes. Go with some 3 by 3 inch ones, some 4 by 4’s, and 1 or 2 larger trauma pad dressings.

Tourniquet – This is another item for heavy bleeding, specifically on limbs. The tourniquet is for occasions when a person would bleed out without the constriction. Yeah, you might do permanent damage to the limb with a tourniquet, but the limb is still no good without someone to use it.
Quikclot – 2 pouches Quikclot 1st Response (50g) will allow you to treat an entry wound and an exit wound or two GSW's with only entry wounds. Make sure you use the product as directed!

Gloves – These are for your protection. You never know who might have a communicable disease, or what you may have to touch in the course of providing first aid. Go with 1 or 2 pairs Nitrile exam gloves.

Disinfectant – This could be Betadine wipes or a similar microbicidal product to disinfect a wound or equipment. If you use individual wipes, have 4 to 6 packs. Also consider a few alcohol wipes to disinfect your hands after treatment is rendered, in case a glove ripped or you didn’t have time to “glove up”.

Tape and Gauze – I lump these together as bandaging material. You’ll usually need one or the other (or both) to keep dressings in place and to keep dirt out.

CPR Shield – Rescue breathing can be messy and hazardous, but it can also be necessary to keep a gunshot victim alive. Keep blood and other fluids out of your own mouth by using a CPR shield.
Trauma Shears – These can be invaluable when you need to cut away clothing quickly to treat a wound.

Of course, there’s plenty more gear that you could add to this kit. Tampons are popular dressings in kits like these. Headlamps give you light and keep both hands free for nighttime emergencies. The list of helpful gear can be quite extensive, but this will give you a good foundation to get started.

Do you have a gunshot wound medical kit? Leave us a comment about the medical gear you carry.

More on how to survive a gunshot wound.

Survival Skills: How to Boil Water in Clay Soil

Alex Robinson — Wed, 29 May 2013 16:06:49 -0400

When you’re stuck in the middle of no-man’s-land, and boiling is your only choice for disinfecting water, how do you get that job accomplished without a container?

You may already know the trick of rock boiling, which is the technique of using fire-heated stones, dropped into a cavity filled with water. This method is used when your water container cannot be moved (like a cavity in a rock) or should not be placed over the fire (like a wooden bowl or bark vessel). But can you rock boil without any rock cavities or another type of container?

Yes. You can actually boil water in a hole in the ground, and I’ve been trying it in different ways for years.

Through trial and error, I’ve finally found the secret: dig your hole in clay soil. Now I’ve rock boiled in plenty of holes in the dirt, when no other vessel was available or a lack of time prevented my construction of a container. The method is a last ditch effort (no pun intended), to get water that has been boiled to kill pathogens. It always starts out fine, but then boiling bubbles created by the red-hot rocks quickly turn the puddle of muddy water into a puddle of hot mud.

After noticing how hard my clay rich soil became when using Dakota fire holes, my solution was clear: Dig a hole, make the walls smooth with clay and burn a fire in the hole to harden the clay.

After the first rock boiling, I could still drink the water. Sure the water still becomes a muddy mess, but the finished boiled water looks a lot more like water, and a lot less like chocolate pudding. Just burn a hot fire from small sticks in your clay lined hole for 20 minutes. Let the fire die, and scoop out all the charcoal and ash (ash and water make lye, you don’t need that). Then improvise something to carry water from your source to the fired clay hole. Heat some rocks for 40 minutes in a fire, drop them in the hole, and boil away.

Tell us if you have rock boiled, out of curiosity or desperation, in the comments section below.

Tips from an Herbalist: How To Make Your Own Tick And Bug Repellent

Alex Robinson — Tue, 28 May 2013 09:39:42 -0400

Our ticks here in Virginia are everywhere right now, and if your local ticks and biting bugs are thriving as well, then this remedy might just be a lifesaver this summer.

From a previous survival blog, I introduced you to my friend Rod Morey, who is an herbalist and modern day mountain man. When Rod and I ran into a mess of those tiny little brown ticks a few weeks ago, Rod ran to retrieve a silver spray bottle full of his famous bug repellent. Rod was kind enough to help us all out by revealing his secret recipe. You’ll need to make a trip to a health food store or some similar shop that sells essential plant oils (or get good at procuring your own plant oils). But once you have a bottle mixed up, you should have plenty of bug repellent for weeks.

“I find this spray useful as we have 3 dogs, and a dozen goats. We give them a quick spray on their legs and underbellies every morning. I too get a quick spray on my shoes/ legs and arms,” Rod says. “I had very few ticks on me since I started using this spray. And I usually get bit if there’s a tick within 100 yards. It's all natural, very easy to make and it's very inexpensive ... I like that.”

Here’s the recipe:

Mix
1 pint distilled white vinegar
1 pint water
25 drops of tea tree oil
25 drops of lavender essential oil
Shake well and put in a spray bottle. Use frequently, like every 3 -4 hours when outside during tick season.”

Check out Rod’s blog for more recipes and herbal medicine info.

Got your own recipe for bug dope? Take a second to tell us about your brew in the comments.

Fire Starting: How to Build a Friction Fire with a Bow and Drill

Alex Robinson — Fri, 24 May 2013 15:30:36 -0400

The bow and drill method is, by far, the most likely friction method for making a fire in the field. This method has been around for thousands of years, and the components can be made from a wide range of materials.

A friction fire happens when one wooden surface is rubbed, ground or spun against another wooden surface. This action is typically done quickly, under significant pressure and in a “back and forth” manner. Both surfaces are consumed with this act of friction, creating wood dust - along with heat - which can form a small, red hot coal that is actually burning. With the bow and drill method, you have several mechanical advantages to assist you. A lubricated bearing block sits atop the drill, keeping the drill stable and creating the necessary downward pressure on the drill. The bow’s string wraps around the drill, giving you a mechanism to spin the drill quickly by moving the bow back and forth.

To make this equipment in the field, and use it the same day, you have to find the right materials in a useable condition. The drill and fire board need to be dead and dry, but not rotten wood. The task of finding wood in this condition is easier in the desert, and it becomes a real challenge in a rainy climate. Your choice of these materials will determine whether you will succeed or fail - before you even start spinning a drill. Choose a drill and board that are soft woods, without a lot of pitch or slippery sap in them.

How To Find The Right Bow Drill Components
Bow
The bow is usually a sturdy branch or limb about 2 feet long and about an inch in diameter. It can be made from almost any green or dead wood that is flexible. It could be slightly curved, or perfectly straight, if it is flexible. Another popular bow is a slightly flexible rib bone from a large animal.

Cord
You’ll have your best luck by bringing a piece of cord or rope from home. The bow drill is one of the hardest uses of a piece of cord, so it should be the strongest material you can get. Thicker cord will be stronger, last longer and grip the drill better than thinner cords. I prefer a 3/16 to 3/8 inch braided nylon rope for my bow drill strings.

Hand hold
This is a piece of hardwood, bone or stone that fits comfortably in your hand, and has a suitable hole in it already, or is able to be drilled out so that it has a suitable socket hole. The perfect hand hold is a rock with a smooth hole in, often found by rivers and on beaches worldwide.

Lubricant
Any greasy, oily or slippery substance such as animal fat, vegetable oil, Pine pitch or crushed evergreen leaves should be suitable. Apply a little lubricant where the hand hold and drill top meet, before each drilling attempt. This is necessary to limit friction at the top of the drill.

Drill
The drill spins against the fire board, generating dust and creating friction and heat. The drill is a smooth cylinder of wood, about 3/4 to one inch in diameter, about six to nine inches long, with a dull point on one end and a sharp point on the other. The dull point goes into the fire board, while the sharp top goes up into the hand hold block. The drill should be as straight as possible and made from soft woods like aspen, willow, yucca stalks or any other soft, fast growing, non-resinous wood.

Fire board
The fire board is a flat or nearly flat board that is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick, at least two inches wide and at least eight inches long can be used as a fire board. Use the same kind of wood for both the board and drill. My favorite in the east is Basswood.

Let us know in the comments if you’ve tried bow and drill fire making, or if you have any questions. Best of luck to you!

Tips from the Air Force: How to Field Dress a Rabbit Without a Knife

Alex Robinson — Fri, 24 May 2013 13:23:35 -0400

This image comes from AFR 64-4, the Air Force's manual on search, rescue and survival training, Volume 1 (July 1985).

The book contains information on everything from shark identification to the psychological aspects of being taken prisoner. It also has a pretty interesting section on trapping and preparing wild game.

The illustration above describes how to field dress a rabbit like an overzealous long snapper. Without a knife it still only takes three easy steps: 1) Grasp tightly with both hands; 2) Squeeze tightly towards the stomach; 3) Squeezing tightly, fling carcass between your legs.

The takeaway? Squeeze your bunny tight! Theoretically, the innards will be flung from the rabbit and you'll be left with a field-dressed carcass. I've seen some creative methods for cleaning and butchering game, but this one is new to me.

Have any of you guys tried this before? Does it work?

Survival Skills: 10 Medicinal Plants You Can Grow at Home

Alex Robinson — Wed, 22 May 2013 16:04:10 -0400

If you have a little space to grow some plants, you can get a lot of enjoyment and even some medicinal relief from growing your own remedies. While these should never take the place of professional medical care, it’s nice to have a sense that you are not helpless, should you end up having to fend for yourself. This is a list of 10 great plants that you can pick up now at home improvement stores and garden centers, and set out as your own personal medicine garden.

1. Yarrow: This is my top pick for someone starting a medicinal garden. Yarrow is a good looking perennial herb that can serve several uses. Among them, crushed yarrow leaves and flowers can be placed on cuts and scratches to stop bleeding and reduce the chance of infection.

2. Aloe Vera: Native to tropical Africa, Aloe has spread all over the world as a first aid-friendly herb that is very soothing to burns and scalds. This tender plant is best grown in a container so that it can be brought inside for the winter (unless you live in the deep-south).

3. Pennyroyal: A great smelling mint relative, pennyroyal can be crushed and applied to the skin as a very effective bug repellent. The leaves can be crushed and applied to wounds as an antiseptic, or brewed as a tea to settle upset stomachs. Don’t overdo it, though. Up to 2 cups per day can be drunk, but any more can—ironically—cause nausea and cramps.

4. Peppermint: Similar to pennyroyal, peppermint can be a great tonic for digestion. However, peppermint, pennyroyal, and other strong mints should not be consumed by women who are (or may be) pregnant, as food and drink that contain fresh strong mint leaf can be dangerous to the baby.

5. Borage: This odd plant has attractive flowers that can be soaked in alcohol to make a mood boosting tonic. The leaves and flowers may be eaten, used for tea, or soaked in wine or liquor to flavor the beverage. Maybe it’s just the liquor talking, but the fresh plant has a salty flavor and a cucumber-like odor.

6. St. John’s Wort: This one lifts the mood so well that you should not take St. John’s wort if you are already on anti-depressants. The leaves and flowers can be used to make tea or soaked in liquor to create a tincture. In February of 2000, the FDA released a warning that there was a risk of dangerous interactions between St. John's Wort and certain prescription medications for AIDS, heart disease, transplant rejection, and cancer, among others.

7. Comfrey: Cooked mashed roots of comfrey are used for a topical treatment for arthritis, bruises, burns, and sprains. Just don’t eat it. Recent research shows that it is damaging to the liver if eaten in quantity.

8. Lemon Balm: Make the best lemonade of your life by adding bruised lemon balm leaves to the drink. This plant also makes an outstanding topical agent for cold sores, and it is often used as a calming “nightcap” tea to fight insomnia.

9. Lavender: Typically used as a fragrance today, lavender has been used since ancient times to treat bug bites, burns, and skin disorders, and to relieve itching and rashes and reduce swelling. But it’s not to be taken internally by pregnant or nursing women, or small children.

10. Echinacea: Echinacea, a.k.a. the purple coneflower, is an American perennial wildflower best known for stimulating the immune system. Echinacea preparations are used against colds and flu, minor infections, and a host of other ailments.

Got a favorite medicinal plant? Tell us what it is and what you do with it by leaving a comment.

How to Fund Your Preparedness Plans

Alex Robinson — Tue, 21 May 2013 09:59:40 -0400

With our wounded economy limping along as pathetically as a run-over possum, and no apparent relief in sight, you might be wondering if you can afford to buy emergency supplies and survival gear right now. Car and home payments, light bills and groceries do seem to have most of our attention these days. But does this mean that we just forget about preparedness? Or put off our purchases until “better times?” What if there are no “better times” ahead?

Most often, if you really want something, you’ll find a way to make it happen. So let me offer five ways to come up with the cash and five high-value/low-cost preps.

Making The Bucks
Yeah, it’s painful to be broke. But a survivalist is nothing if not resourceful. Consider these money generating plans to make your preparedness plans come to life. And remember, the money you make should be earmarked for preps—don’t blow it on other stuff.

- Suck it up and have a yard sale. I know it’s hard to part with things that you paid money for, only to have somebody try to haggle you down to a dollar or less for it. But consider the value of what you will buy with that money, and let go of stuff you haven’t used in a year or more and won’t ever need again.

- Become a pawn star. Receiving pennies on the dollar for your possessions can be seen as insulting, but it also makes you immediate money.

- Put stuff on eBay. For those who are savvy with a computer and a camera, you can get your best return by using eBay to auction off your goodies.

- Run an ad. For bigger items, it might be worth your time to run an ad in the local paper or at craigslist.com to sell some unneeded equipment, tools, or collectibles.

- Scoop up some scrap. Scrap metal is selling well right now, especially copper. You might be surprised what some copper pipe, an old radiator, or a cast iron bathtub will fetch.

What To Buy With Your New Wealth?
What you buy should depend on your individual needs and the likely disaster scenarios for which you are preparing. Never forget your survival basics: shelter, water, fire, food, first aid, security, and communication. For those of you who don’t have any backpacking or camping gear, you can start with that. Then get into water purification equipment, fire starters, long-lasting food, etc. Here’s my hot list of 5 cheap preps for these hard times. If I only had five things to live off, make mine a metal pot for cooking and water boiling, a big package of Bic lighters to start that fire, a big bag of rice to eat, first aid supplies for the inevitable wounds and a sleeping bag. Why these five? Because these choices are all life-sustaining items that are damn hard to fabricate out in the woods.

Have you got some preps you’ve had your eye on? Tell us what you’re saving up for in the comments.

Photo by Rubbermaid Products on Flickr

5 Keys to Your Family’s Disaster Communication Plan

Alex Robinson — Tue, 21 May 2013 09:25:11 -0400

The ability to communicate with your friends, family, and loved ones anytime, anywhere is one of the most undervalued features of the modern world. When an emergency cuts off this ability, we can be caught off guard and out of the loop if we are unable to reach out to those we wish to contact.

There are a few things that can help us, if we should find ourselves in this disorienting situation.

1. Know your numbers: By having a cell phone programmed with names instead of dialing the actual phone numbers every time you call, many of us may find ourselves forgetting what our important phone numbers are. Take time to memorize them, or keep a “cheat sheet” someplace handy.

2. Have a place for notes: If the phones are out, have specific places at home and at work where you will post notes that provide information to others. You might not want them in a public place, as this could invite burglary during a crisis. For example, if you leave a note on your front door saying “Gone to the cabin,” then looters will know the home is ripe for the picking.

3. Consider back-up communication devices: Walkie-talkies and CB radios can provide you and your group with some short-range communication. Also consider headphones or an earpiece on the walkies, so that you can keep things discreet.

4. Plan a distress signal: This would be something that only you and your people know about, which signals a problem among your group. This can include things like leaving the welcome sign hanging sideways outside the home, or having a code word you say to the group if you are alarmed or perceive a threat.

5. Have a communications hub: This is a person or place that acts as a hub for information. A relative who lives outside that disaster zone can relay info among those who are able to communicate with him. This could also be a place outside your community, where you can leave messages for each other.

Does your family have a communication plan if you can’t reach out through phones? Please share your strategies in the comments.

Survival Skills: How to Build a Fish Funnel Trap

Alex Robinson — Mon, 20 May 2013 09:06:01 -0400

Fish traps may be as old as fishing itself, and can prove vital during a survival situation. Even if the fish you catch are not big, getting any amount protein is worth the trouble when you’re up against it. A funnel fish trap can be used in two different ways to get you some small fish, either to eat directly or to use as bait for other things.

One way is to build a large, cone-shaped funnel 4- to 6-feet long; and place it in running water, preferably with a blockade around it to direct the fish into the trap. The pressure of the moving water tends to keep the aquatic creatures packed down in the bottom of the trap, but you need to be right there to lift the trap from the water and retrieve the fish, eels, or crustaceans. The other way to make a funnel trap is to have an insert in the trap that allows the fish to go into a container, but prevents them from coming out. This is the style we will work on today.

How Does The Still-Water Fish Trap Work?
Crab pots, lobster traps, and fish funnels all work the same way. Most aquatic animals will always keep to the edges of a trap, not thinking to go to the inside center of the trap to find the only opening. Octopi are about the only creature with the smarts to outwit a funnel trap—pretty much everything else gets trapped inside.

What You’ll Need
- You won’t need much to create a small funnel fish trap. All you need are:

- A clear 2-liter soda bottle

- A few feet of string

- A sharp knife or some utility snippers (anything from EMT shears to multi-tool scissors)

- Little chunks of meat and/or animal fat for bait

Cut the top off the bottle where the cone meets the sidewalls. Simply remove the bottle cap if you want a small entry to the trap for minnows and bait critters. Cut off the cone below the bottle’s neck to make a bigger opening, but don’t go bigger than 2 inches in diameter. Fish will easily find their way out if the opening is too big.

Now, flip the cut-off cone around, inserting it inside the body of the bottle. Next, pierce a few holes through the bottle sidewall and the cone edge, using a punch on your multi-tool or the tip of your knife. Use a small bit of cord to stitch the cone to the bottle body. If using large bait items, place them inside the bottle before stitching it up, or you can carve a trapdoor in the side of the bottle and secure it with some string. This allows easy bait replacement and fish retrieval.

Use a bit more string to tie the bottle to a stake in the mud or an available tree root underwater, sinking the fish trap in still waters. Wait long enough, and you’ll be rewarded with some little fish, crawdads, or something useful.

How To Plant a Calorie-Conscious Survival Garden

Alex Robinson — Fri, 10 May 2013 13:07:19 -0400

The strategy behind growing a survival garden differs from that of growing a standard vegetable garden. Sure, tomatoes, peppers, and herbs taste great, but they are all low in calories. A savvy survival gardener will grow a diverse assortment of high-calorie food crops.

There is a quick and easy way to get your survival garden started—purchase a “survival garden” seed assortment. But before you buy that prepackaged bucket of seeds, you’ll need to check if there are there enough high-calorie plants included. Those buckets always seem to lack some of the easy growing, high-value crops that are grown from live material, such as potatoes and sweet potatoes. Rather than buying a turnkey bucket of seeds, you might be better off selecting your own seed, supplemented each spring with slips and seedlings for each plant type. This way, you can take into account the soil, weather, pests, and rainfall where you live.

Some high-calorie veggies to consider for a survival garden are peanuts (a massive calorie payout of 1,200 calories per cup); sunflowers (the seeds yield 800 calories per cup); soy, navy, kidney, lima, and fava beans; chickpeas; black-eyed peas; and parsnips and other root crops like carrots, turnips, and rutabaga.

The work of tilling, digging, and weeding can be a big deterrent for many people who would otherwise get a lot from the experience of gardening. But there is an easy solution for that, too—you can grow in containers. I like the big pots that trees come in, but a garbage can with a few holes in the bottom will work fine, too. Fill these containers with potting soil and/or mulch, compost, aged manure, or some dirt you dig up.

Once the work is done, the waiting begins. But once the plant parts start to turn edible, you’ll have to control the inevitable pests. Little things like bugs can wreak havoc. Bigger things like deer, raccoons, groundhogs, and thieving neighbors can erase all your hard work in a flash. Blockades, netting, fencing, and vigilance are just another element of growing your own self-sufficient garden.

Do you have a survival garden? Tell us what you grow and why in the comments.

Wilderness Survival: Visiting a Modern-Day Medicine Man

Alex Robinson — Wed, 08 May 2013 12:31:12 -0400

Last week, I had the pleasure of being a guest in the home of a truly fascinating person and a master at his craft. Rod Morey is a locally renowned herbalist and knife maker in the Virginia panhandle, and he was gracious enough to spend a day with me to share some of his wild medicinal plant secrets.

I have long been a dabbler in medicinal plants, curing bee stings with plantain leaf and mending scratches with yarrow. But my focus has always been plants that can be used to make a friction fire and good-tasting wild plants. I had always steered away from deeper studies in medicinal plants because there was so much bothersome stuff associated with the trade.

As long as I have known about using herbs for medicine, I have been uncomfortable with the rituals, incantations, and hokum that seemed inseparable from the art form of wild medicine. Any concern I had about Rod or his methods melted away when I was promptly served homemade cornbread and an outstanding wild herbal tea upon arrival at his home.

Then it was time to get to work. We spent the morning in a room of Rod’s home dedicated to his medicines, which he referred to as “the apothecary.” Rod then began sharing his story with me, and some of his tried and true remedy recipes. He had been an EMT for more than two decades, until a fast moving case of cancer very nearly ended his life. Much of this throat was removed to save his life, but not long after, his cancer returned. He told me that the medical system he had served for so long had failed him, and that he was instructed to prepare for the end.

“I was diagnosed with terminal, stage IV cancer of the larynx and trachea. My physician told me I had a one-percent chance to live more than a year,” says Rod. “I knew I would only survive if I took charge of my own wellness, so I did.”

Rod’s death sentence was pronounced more than 25 years ago. Thanks to his teas, tonics, and medicines, Rod is healthy today. He doesn’t even take a single daily pill or prescription. If his blood pressure goes up, he’s got a tea for that. If he gets sick (which is rare), he’s got some other medicinals to use. No wizardry here, just the science of medicinal compounds naturally occurring in plants.

Since his early successes, Rod has become a sought-after herbalist. During my day with Rod, he showed me how to make colloidal silver (the right way, so your skin won’t turn blue) and gave me recipes for several of his most popular salves and teas. We took a walk across his property where he grows many of his medicines, and he explained uses for plants that I’ve been familiar with for years, yet never fully realize the potential of. I left Rod’s home with a bag of medicines and am very much looking forward to my next visit to the apothecary.

Survival Skills: How to Use Birch for Fire Starters, Containers, Tea, and More

Alex Robinson — Mon, 06 May 2013 16:07:13 -0400

If you are fortunate enough to live within the native range of birch trees, then you have a lot of interesting survival options at your disposal. Birch can provide you with firewood and containers, and the right species of birch can even be turned into a tea and sweetener.

Fire
For friction fire building with birch, you can use the dead and dry branches for your drill and fire board. These materials are effective, but not quite as easy to use as willow or cedar. By far, the best fire related use of birch comes when you burn the papery curls as your fire starter. This birch paper is like a stepping stone between tinder and kindling. Whether wet or dry, these birch bark curls will burn strong, creating a black oily smoke. Any birch species that produces papery bark will be useable, but the white birch (aka paper birch) is the most effective. You’ll need an open flame like a match or lighter for best results in lighting the bark. Spark-based fire starting methods are not particularly effective for lighting the bark strips.

Containers
A great variety of containers can be made from birch. Little things like bowls and dishes are easily made. Bigger stuff like canoes are a lot more work to build; but are light weight and rot resistant. The bark can be peeled from rotten logs, or cut from live branches and trunks during the spring peeling season.

Tea
Another one of my favorite uses for birch is to make black birch tea. This birch is also called the sweet birch (betula lenta). The twigs and young bark have the rich, mouthwatering aroma of sweet wintergreen. Shave off a few strips of this bark from a young branch, or break up some twigs into small sticks. About a tablespoon of material will be plenty for an 8-ounce cup of tea (though you’ll probably want to drink more than just one cup). If you make this tea in early spring when the sap is running, the tea will be naturally sweetened by the sugar in the sap. Let the bark shavings or twigs sit in the water for a few hours for the full sweetening effect. This was the original source for birch beer, too.

And speaking of sweet sap, any birch can be tapped for syrup just like maple. See our maple blog from February for all the details.

Graphic Image Warning: Bear Grylls' Producer Suffers Gruesome Snake Bite Wound

Alex Robinson — Wed, 01 May 2013 13:59:47 -0400

Celebrity survivalist Bear Grylls tweeted yesterday: "Our man vs wild producer suffering from a brutal snake bite -- fighting the injury with courage,” with the gut-wrenching photo shown below.

Since then, the photo (which shows the skin rotting away from producer Steve Rankin's foot) has gone viral and is creating quite a stir in the social media world.

A Discovery Channel source told the Huffington Post that: "The photo was taken three weeks ago, when Grylls and Rankin were shooting a new series for the network called 'Naked & Afraid' Since then, Rankin has undergone surgery for the wound, and his prognosis is very good."

It's unclear where the team was filming and what species of venomous snake bit Rankin (see our list of the world's deadliest snakes).

Original tweet.

Survival Skills: How to Make a Bow Reel

Alex Robinson — Wed, 01 May 2013 10:06:53 -0400

When you think about bow fishing, you might naturally jump to the idea of shooting harpoon-tipped arrows attached to a reel of line. Sure, that’s how most folks do it, but there’s another fish bow out there. This one isn’t for arrows, but in fact, it’s an improvised spool to store your fishing line.

To make a fish bow, you’ll need several dozen yards of monofilament. This mono could be backed with something “uglier,” such as a single strand from some gutted 550 cord, if you need to extend your fishing line supplies. You’ll also need a bow shaped stick about 2 feet long. A curve to the bow is best. If there is a natural fork at one end, then half of your work will already be done. Carve or break out a notch from the other end of the bow, or both ends if there is no fork. Carve a slice in the wood or create a split in one end of the bow to insert your line when the bow is not in use. Tie the fishing line securely to either end of the bow; and wind the mono back and forth onto the bow. This is a great gizmo to straighten out your fishing line if it was all kinked up from being in a survival kit.

Now to join the ranks of survival fishermen, you just need some hooks and bait. With field-made bow like this, and bait caught on site, you’ll only have to carry the monofilament and some hooks in your emergency kit to give yourself the building blocks to catch fish in a variety of waters.

Ever use a fish bow? How about a Hobo fishing reel? Tell us about it in the comments section.

Siblings Swim for Half a Day After Boat Sinks in Caribbean

Alex Robinson — Mon, 29 Apr 2013 12:06:50 -0400

Dan and Kate Suski, along with an unnamed captain and first mate, are counting themselves lucky after they were forced to swim for their lives for more than half a day in the Caribbean waters off St. Lucia.

The brother and sister from San Francisco had chartered a boat to do some fishing last Sunday. When the 31-foot fishing vessel began to take on water, the siblings and crew had no choice but to abandon the boat. They put on their life jackets and jumped into the open water.

“It was completely surreal watching the boat stern go down, go subsurface underwater,” Dan said.

In the rough seas, the Suskis were soon separated from the crew by the huge waves. After some time, the siblings spotted land in the distance and swam toward it.

“It would disappear intermittently as we swam but we felt the wind behind us and used that as a gauge for direction,” Kate said.

After swimming for an unbelievable 14 hours, the Suskis made it to shore. They spent the night shivering with hypothermia, eating bananas and mangoes from an island orchard. The next day they encountered a farm worker who called for help.

“We were very lucky we found a small sliver of beach and we were able to get to safety that way,” Kate said.

The Suskis were hospitalized in St. Lucia and treated for dehydration and various injuries. The captain and his first mate were rescued on Monday, when a boat saw them and brought them to safety, according to reports.

In addition to the obvious threat of sharks, spring water temperatures in the Caribbean can be cool, making hypothermia as much a hazard as drowning. Hypothermia can set in quickly in water, leaving the victim dizzy, disoriented and weak. If the hypothermia continues, hallucinations and other mental issues can arise. The effect of cold water can vary from person to person, as body weight, body type and mental conditioning all play a role in one’s ability to survive in the water.

We’re thrilled all four people made it through this shipwrecked scenario safely.

Have you been marooned or had to swim for your life? Tell us your tale in the comments.

Oklahoma Teenager Lost In Remote Oregon Wilderness

Alex Robinson — Thu, 18 Apr 2013 14:34:43 -0400

Oregon authorities, along with search-and-rescue crews, have been looking for an Oklahoma teenager who is believed to be in trouble in a remote area of southeastern Oregon.

Dustin Self, 19, decided that he wanted to live off the land after watching the movie Into the Wild. A dedicated vegetarian, Self reportedly wanted to see if he could live in a wilderness area subsisting only on wild foods, other than meat. The teen had also mentioned that he wanted to investigate some “churches” that practice a South American religion that uses a hallucinogenic tea as part of their religious practices, one of these groups being in Oregon.

The Harney County Sheriff's Office in Oregon began to search for Self on Tuesday, after the teen’s truck was found stuck in a ditch on a backcountry track. Searchers on ATVs found no sign of Self, and were forced to delay their search with heavy snow and high winds approaching, according to media reports.

Authorities are waiting for the weather to clear, so they can search by aircraft as well as on the ground.

"We did everything we could to try to talk him out of it," said his mother, Tammy Self. "He was leaving, no matter what. He thought he was going to eat berries," she said. "We tried to tell him, berries don't grow in wintertime."

"He is not a survivalist," said his father, Victor Self, a manager at a box plant in Oklahoma City. "He is a very urban child. We're worried sick. I just hope he's alive."

His parents last heard from Self on March 15, when he called from northern Nevada. His father called the Harney County Sheriff's Office on March 17, which initiated a search of local roadways. A missing person report was filed with the local police. When Self’s truck was found this past Monday, the teen’s backpack and camping gear were gone, but the truck keys, a computer, his GPS, and some of his food had been left behind.

Of course we are all hoping for the boy’s safe return, and hopefully wiser for the wear. But I cannot help but think about another copycat who got into trouble in 2011. A 68-year-old man from North Carolina decided to hike alone into Utah’s Little Blue John Canyon by himself (Link to 9/28/2011 Utah survivor story), after watching the movie 127 Hours. The man barely survived an injury he received there, similar to that of the protagonist in the film. You would think that people would pick up on the theme from these movies—that bad things happen when venture into rugged, inhospitable places by yourself. But I guess a lot of people don’t think about the harshness that wild places actually contain.

Or they just don’t think at all.

What’s your take on stories like these? And by all means, call it like you see it.

Survival Skills: How to Know Whether a Wound Needs Stitches

Alex Robinson — Thu, 18 Apr 2013 09:20:03 -0400

When you get cut out in the field, it can be hard to tell just how bad the injury is until the bleeding subsides. After applying pressure for a few minutes, and once you can actually see the nature of the wound, you’ll probably be wondering if the wound needs stitches or not? It’s a simple question, but it opens up a big gray area in field medical care.

The first advice I would give is the obvious advice, find a medical practitioner to make the call about either using stitches or simply bandaging up the wound. But if you are hell and gone from any normal medical care, or you are away from your group’s medic, you may have to make your own assessment. Just don’t “Rambo” your way through the wound’s care, trying to use fishhooks and foolishness to stitch yourself up. Make sure you have a proper suture kit and the knowledge to use it correctly.

Here are a few tips to help you make the right call if you cannot get to a doctor or medic. Stitch up your wound if any of the following apply:

The cut is more than an inch long and the edges of the cut will not fall back together.

There is heavy bleeding, especially if you are having trouble getting it to stop.

The cut gapes widely and you can see muscle, bone, or a joint.

It’s a head wound—they often require stitches because the scalp bleeds easily.

Looking for some pre-emergency suture practice? Try cutting a banana peel or fresh pig’s feet, then stitching the cut back together. A very intelligent heart surgeon friend of mine recommends these two methods of training, and the use of the same suture materials you currently stock in your medical kit. And don’t stitch too deep! The beginner is always stitching like they’re trying to mend a sail. Stitch through the first layer of skin, let the curved needle come out in the second layer, but don’t dig down deeper into that third, nerve-rich layer of skin. The additional pain will let you know you went too deep with the needle.

Ever needed to stitch up yourself or somebody else? We hope you’ll share your story in the comments.

Maine Hermit: How Did He Do It?

Alex Robinson — Tue, 16 Apr 2013 15:33:10 -0400

How long could you live in the woods? A year? 10? 30? If you have a large tax bill to pay today, disappearing into the wilderness and living off the grid may seem a little more appealing than it ever has before, but would you ever choose that kind of life? One man did make that choice and had been at it for the past 27 years, until he was arrested for stealing supplies from a Maine camp last week.

Christopher Knight, 47, is currently being held on $5,000 bail on charges of burglary and theft after tripping a surveillance sensor set up by a local game warden. Knight was detected while stealing supplies from a camp for people with special needs, but that was far from his first offense. For more than a decade, locals have told stories of thefts and cabin break-ins, giving rise to the local legend of the "North Pond Hermit."

After leaving the Pine Tree Camp last Thursday with $280 worth of food, authorities found the campsite where they say Knight lived. The camp consisted of a tent covered by tarps for additional waterproofing. His camp also contained a bed, propane cooking stoves, a rudimentary shower and a battery-powered radio with a 30-foot antenna.

Knight’s many years of hermitage were all thanks to his methods of avoiding detection. He never had a campfire, as he knew that the light and smoke would draw unwanted attention. He only made his scavenging forays at night, returning to his camp with only a small flashlight. And he rarely left his camp during the winter months to prevent people from tracking him through the snow. Knight claims that he spent his vast amount of free time reading, meditating, and watching eagles.

Knight took to the woods in 1986, and moved around periodically until he made a permanent camp in rural Rome, Maine, in the early 1990s. He only entered civilization when he needed to steal supplies, which was always done at night.

"The first concern is he might be a flight risk," said District Attorney Maeghan Maloney. "The second concern is the group of people who are interested in posting bail for Mr. Knight who are not from our state and not members of his family.” Knight has several local relatives, including his mother Joyce, who still lives on Pond Road where Knight grew up.

"I will remain concerned for Mr. Knight until he has an attorney helping him to navigate what is a new world to him," Maloney said.

Since this story broke, Knight is getting more attention than he has probably had in his whole life. Someone called the jail where he's being held with a marriage proposal this past weekend. And a man Knight didn't know showed up Saturday night offering to pay his $5,000 bail, the Kennebec Journal reported.

What do you make of Knight? Is he a sympathetic and misunderstood character? Or is he a backwoods weirdo who should be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law for his years of theft? Sound off in the comments.

Survival Gear Review: The AMK Dentalmedic Kit

Alex Robinson — Tue, 09 Apr 2013 09:44:33 -0400

When you are a long way from a dentist, and your teeth start giving you trouble, you’ll need a very specific set of medical items to bring yourself relief. With that very specific need in mind, the forward thinking folks at Adventure Medical Kits created the Dentalmedic kit.

This ultralight zip-top bag contains the essentials for treating dental ailments and injuries when no dentist is near. It could even be handy over a weekend trip, or anytime a qualified dentist isn't available. This 3.5-ounce kit contains:

Dental first aid instructions:
1 tea bag for pain relief (moisten the bag and place it on your tooth and gum to reduce swelling, bleeding, and pain)

2 packages of Benzocaine 20% for pain relief

1 dental wax temporary filling

1 tube of temporary cavity filling mixture

5 cotton pellets and 5 cotton rolls to give you cottonmouth like you are really at the dentist

1 box of dental floss and 3 toothpicks

Having grown up with (and still maintaining) a raging sweet tooth with all the cavities to prove it, this kit is my new “must have item” for any trip. I never know when a filling or crown might fall out, or if I’ll crack a tooth tooth, but I feel a lot more secure with this tiny package stowed in my gear. The Dentalmedic bag measures 5 x 5.25 x 1 inches, and is packed in a waterproof bag. All this can be yours for a mere $15.

How to Sharpen and Repair Axes and Hatchets

Alex Robinson — Mon, 08 Apr 2013 09:00:18 -0400

A good axe or hatchet is a major part of camp life. This tool provides us with split firewood and can help with specialized tasks like bow making, bowl carving and making camp furniture. However, a dull axe edge or a wobbly hatchet handle can be a dangerous liability.

Axe sharpening is not much different than knife sharpening; in fact it’s much easier. Axe and hatchet blades don’t require such a delicate touch as knife blades do. You can use a variety of sharpening tools as well. I have sharpened hatchets with files, whet stones, and even rounded stones from the creek.

You can start sharpening nicked or seriously dull axes with a bastard file (no, I don’t know why they call it that). You don’t want to sharpen “into” the blade (from sharp edge toward the handle), as this causes you to risk pushing the file too far and cutting yourself. File from the back of the axe head, toward the edge and out. This does create more of a bur than filing the other way, but it’s faster to remove a bur than regrow a fingertip. Work both sides of the axe equally, counting strokes if you want to get it perfect. File until the blade edge is beginning to feel sharp again, and any chips or nicks in the edge have been eliminated.

When you’re done filing, move your axe to the whet stone. Some folks like to scrape the stone on the blade. I prefer to move the blade against a stationary stone. Lube with oil or water as you normally would with that stone. Go with water if you’re not sure what your stone likes to drink. I grind axes with little circles, going from one side of the edge to the other, counting strokes and matching that on the other side. If the blade has a bur, whet stone the side with the bur until it is gone, then sharpen each side with equal strokes.

There are a few problems that can happen with axes which are repairable in the field. To repair axes with slightly loose wooden handles, soak the axe head in antifreeze overnight. Just use enough to cover the axe head and an inch up the wood handle. This will cause the wood to swell, fitting the handle to head better. The antifreeze will keep it swollen for a few weeks or longer. If the head is seriously loose, you’ll need to drive a wedge or two into the wooden handle end which is visible from the top of the axe head. These wedges can be field cut from hardwood, but are much better if they are store bought metal wedges. You may need to remove existing wedges and replace them with bigger ones.

For rust removal, try a wire brush or steel wool. For major rust removing chores, use a cup brush on a grinder. For rust proofing, consider oiling the axe head periodically. Any oil will work.

Good luck sharpening and fixing, and let us know if you have a trick or two by leaving a comment.

Fire Starting: Teepee vs Log Cabin

Alex Robinson — Thu, 04 Apr 2013 10:58:18 -0400

When you start a campfire, how do you do it? Do you use a log cabin fire lay? A teepee fire lay? Or is there a pile of wet logs and a can of diesel involved? I hope it’s not that last one.

For years, I have been a big fan of the teepee fire lay. It just seemed like the natural shape to allow the fire to climb at a steady pace. But I wanted to see if there was any solid evidence that one fire lay did something that another style did not, so I set out with equal amounts of the same fire building materials to determine if there were any major differences between a log cabin fire and a teepee fire. Using two pounds of sticks and a quarter-pound of twigs for each fire lay, I built a cone-shaped teepee and a square log cabin with a small cone core. With a handful of dry oak leaf tinder in the center of the fire lays, I lit each one with a quick kiss from a Bic lighter.

The dry conditions and breeze during my test were a great help in the ignition of both fires. The four ounces of dry small twigs in each lay lit very quickly and immediately began to burn both structures. As I had suspected would happen, the teepee produced a larger volume of flames within the first five minutes of testing, and the teepee flames reached a taller height than those of the log cabin. The teepee flames hit two feet in height, while the log cabin flames were a few inches shorter than that.

As the structures became fully engulfed in fire, they both collapsed inward on themselves. You won’t always get that effect in a teepee lay—sometimes it falls to one side. The log cabin-style fire offers more structural support. Thankfully, both of our test lays fell inward, giving us a fair comparison.

After ten minutes of burning, a few small flames flickered in both fire lays, going out at the same time. The remaining beds of coals, however, were quite different. The teepee coal bed was a nice, round pile, while the cabin lay was a spread-out square of thinner coals. Two thumb thick sticks on the cabin’s upwind perimeter did not burn; all of the teepee sticks were consumed. The coals continued burning for many minutes afterward in both fire lays, but 30 minutes after starting this test, the log cabin coals were dead. At 32 minutes, I still had enough coals in the teepee pile to rekindle the fire, which I did.

My hunch was confirmed: When all factors are equal and the same amount of materials are used, the teepee burns with a bigger, taller flame and produces a more concentrated, long-lived coal bed. What I thought was most revealing in this test is that a mere 2.25 pounds of twigs and sticks can produce a half-hour’s worth of fire and coals. Maybe I’ll try stretching my firewood supply a little more the next time I have a campfire.

Got any experiments you’d like us to try? Done any yourself? Let’s hear about them in the comments.